A Thai Ghost Story
I intended to write about crime this week. I promise that is true. This past week, Asia as is usually the case, was chock a block with crime stories. Sometimes the amount of crime, the scope and depth of the criminal classes overwhelms a blogger. Choosing one crime story over another becomes next to impossible.
In such dire straits, I have fallen back on the alternative to a crime story, and that is, of course, telling a good ghost story. You might well say, that ghost stories, at least in Thailand, are also a dime a dozen. I wouldn’t say that you’d be entirely wrong. But there is a ghost story that needs to be told this Friday 1st July (which just happens to be Canada Day).
Ghosts and crime stories aren’t usually lumped together as there is one big difference between the two. In Thailand, ghost stories are infinitely more believable, receive more balanced media coverage, and have far more consensus amongst the Thais than most of the crime or political stories. Those stories made them foot stomping mad. I am sticking with ghosts. This is the little known place where all Thais appear to be united. Few political differences exist between the Thais when it comes to ghosts.
Let me prove my point with a ghost story that has a political spin, and by nature, hints at crime. In many countries, the political leader lives in an official residence while in office. It is a wonderful perk that goes with the job. Taxpayers foot the bill for cleaning the drapes, repairing the air conditioners, cutting the grass, shoveling the snow (where applicable) and polishing the silver. The White House and Number 10 Downing Street are among the best known official residential addresses. But there are dozens of palaces, houses, mansions that dot the planet that also function as official residence for elected leaders. Indeed in Canada, the leader of the opposition has an official residence. But even our provincial leaders have official residences. This is far better than the proceeds of crime. Free mansions, staff, grub, car, driver, and security detail means they get to live like investment bankers.
Thailand also has an official residence for the prime minister called Baan Phitsanulok (บ้านพิษณุโลก). The house was built during the reign of King Vajiravudh. In 1979 it became the official residence of the Thai Prime Minister. But it has been rarely used in the same way that the White House or Number 10 Downing Street is used. While a prime minister might schedule a meeting at Baan Phitsanulok, they don’t normally spend much time there or sleep there. Or keep their families there. Baan Phitsanulok isn’t a place where prime ministers want to spend the night. Let me make it abundantly clear: the Thai Prime Minister has an official residence but they apparently refuse to move in and live there.
I was thinking of the official residence recently as I drove passed the family compound of the current Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva on Soi 31, Sukhumvit Road. For many years, I lived around the corner from Abhisit’s family compound. In those days, there was nothing distinguished about the compound from the outside. You’d drive past and never think twice what was behind the walls.
Recently I drove passed Khun Abhisit’s Soi 31 family compound and this was a different experience. Soldiers with M16s patrolled the perimeter. Barbwire is strung around the top of the wall making it look like a maximum-security prison in the interior of Columbia. At the intersection just before the Prime Minister Abhisit’s family compound are police booths, military positions, and many men in uniform.
Not only does the presence of all these heavily armed, uniformed men cause traffic jams, the overall impression is to convert this little oasis on Sukhumvit into an unofficial Green Zone like a compound in Baghdad. This part of Soi 31 doesn’t feel like Bangkok. Obviously the compound was never intended to be an official residence for a prime minister. This raises the question as to why the Prime Minister doesn’t live in the official residence? Why isn’t he sleeping at Baan Phistanulok?
The answer is ghosts. Baan Phistanulok is said to be haunted.
Yes, that’s right, as Thailand prepares for a highly contested, bitter election on Sunday 3rd July, no candidate for prime minister has promised the voters that, if elected, he will exorcise the Baan Phisasnulok ghost (or ghosts as the head count is open to question) and take up residence. And not only that, once in office, he (or more likely it will be a ‘she’) will make an all-out effort in the first ninety days in office to rid the Kingdom of all other evil spirits, ghosts and demons.
While the social and politically classes are divided over many political and social issues, including about who should govern and how they should govern the country, the Thai people seem to be united in their belief that nothing can be done to deal with the ghost problem at the official residence of the prime minister.
I have interviewed Thais in preparing this essay and none have said the ghost issue at Baan Phitsaulok will influence how they intend to vote on Sunday. Nonetheless, I have collected invaluable information.
Those supporting the re-election of the current government led by Prime Minister Abhisit, contend that the ghost at Baan Phitsanulok is on the payroll of former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, and that they have considerable evidence to support offshore, illegal payments by bad people have been funneled into the ghosts account. This evidence will be divulged soon.
The opposition political party led by Khun Yingluck Shinawatra, former Prime Minister Thaksin’s sister, says that her party has several policies that deal with the ghosts, including an amnesty and a newly created Ministry of Ghost Amnesty. Her amnesty would cover all ghosts going back two hundred years. All criminal charges and allegations will be dropped. All ghosts’ old rank, status and privileges will be restored.
She also denies any payments have been made to the Baan Phitsanulok ghost or to any other ghosts. That it has all been a misunderstanding as the ghost had always been willing to negotiate but no prime minister ever stuck around long enough to talk and get to know her (yes, the ghost is a she) Apparently the opposition’s fortuneteller has confirmed not only the gender of the Baan Phitsaulok ghost, but has received assurances that as of 4th July the ghost will decamp and take up residence at Soi 31, Sukhumvit Road until her pardon comes through.
The Prime Minister’s office did not return phone calls about his policies on appeasing the ghost.
Much is riding on the 3rd July election in Thailand. Even the ghosts, who may or may not be voting, have an apparent stake in the outcome.